Ten years ago, most men would have laughed at the idea of flare-leg jeans and crystal-ornamented shirts. But, no one, besides the manufacturers, was laughing when they shelled out $90 for a t-shirt and $300 for a pair of jeans.  Economic booms are funny that way.  As our bank accounts swell, our discretion erodes at a similar pace.  Bad decisions proliferate, and we soon find our old selves almost unrecognizable.  Then, as is the destiny of all things that go up, it all comes crashing down just as quickly, and with a rather loud thud.

Save Khaki collection at GQ/CFDA Awards Show, Courtesy Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for GQ, licensed under Creative Commons

Right now, we’re in the midst of that “thud”.  It’s a time of reflection, where we take stock of the past and try to plot a more intelligent course for the future.  The flare-leg jeans and Ed Hardy shirts that were so popular just a year ago are now hitting the shelves at discount stores.  And, the manufacturers of those trends are painfully aware of the fact that, as Rock and Republic’s founder Michael Ball recently said, “The days of the $300 jeans are gone.”

So, as we lick our collective wounds like a boy who has just suffered his first bullying, we seek comfort by way of familiarity.  This means returning to the items worn by our fathers and their fathers before them.  Peering into the pages of today’s top men’s fashion magazines, one could easily get the impression that the preppy look of yesteryear is back in full force.  Case in point: all six of GQ’s nominees for Best New Menswear Designer featured some variation on khaki, gingham and oxford shirts in their collections.   However, David Mullen of Save Khaki—one of those nominees—knows better.

This latest trend towards preppy (or traditional, or American, or whatever you want to call it) isn’t actually a trend at all.  Instead, it’s a return to the comfort zone etched into our style ethos over generations through familiar items like oxford cloth shirts, blazers and his label’s namesake khakis.  And, David is quick to rebuke anyone trying to pigeonhole these items, saying, “Some people think of it as preppy; some people think of it as American; but I think it kind of transcends all that”.

GQ/CFDA Best New Menswear Designer nominees (Mullen second from left), Courtesy Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for GQ, licensed under Creative Commons

And, transcend they have, through wars, financial crises, flocks of seagulls and other compromising periods in our short, but heralded, history, returning occasionally to ground us when we’ve flown the fashion coop.

Perplexing as their consistency may seem, the reason is quite simple according to David: “In the end, things that are good prevail.” Save Khaki’s name and clothing give testament to his way of thinking.  And, even though the name is admittedly tongue-in-cheek, it makes a valid point.

After their brief revival in the late 90s, khakis have been surprisingly absent from the public eye in recent years.  Yet, they are a historic pillar of American style. From JFK’s khakis-and-top-siders  at the helm of the Manitou to Ben Hogan’s elegant khakis flowing as he belted one down the fairway, they are constantly on the minds and bodies of our heroes.  This fact is not lost on Mullen.  In fact, he even cites Hogan’s timeless style as the inspiration for his line.

Given our current economic turmoil, it makes perfect sense that designers such as David would look to figures of the post-depression era for inspiration.  After all, the epochal similarities are striking.

Save Khaki in GQ Best New Menswear Designer nominees spread, David Mullen (second from left), Peggy Sirota, Courtesy of men.style.com, licensed under Creative Commons

The late 1940’s and early 1950’s were built on a sensibility forged of the hardships of economic desolation and war.  It, like now, was a serious time, and the style (or lack thereof) reflected that.   Versatility and respectability were paramount, with fashion more of an afterthought.  Items like khakis, oxford shirts and blazers, with their inarguable versatility, could not be denied.  From church pews to backyard barbecues, they handled it all with effortless grace (and the occasional trip to the ironing board).  So it should come as no surprise that these classics have returned once again, just as they have many times before.

David channels this utilitarian sentiment in his new collection, which he affectionately dubs “preppy workwear”.  For him, it’s all about rethinking and repurposing old classics to give them new life.  The rolled-up, ticking-stripe pants seen in his latest GQ shoot are a perfect example: “Instead of taking the ticking stripe pant and doing it as a carpenter pant, we do it as sort of a trouser so that it serves both functions, “ says David.  It’s a true throwback to a simpler time when wardrobes relied on a few well-made items rather than a closet full of low-quality copies.

At $100 for a pair, these aren’t cheap. Being a small operation, Save Khaki doesn’t enjoy the same economies of scale as their big-box competitors, which means that its limited production runs cost more per garment.  In order to justify the premium, David focuses intently on quality and fit. And, with a background in product development and fitment consulting, David’s attention to detail is second to none.

With a perplexing combination of classic and modern, preppy and minimal, David’s designs are an exercise in subtlety.  And, if his inclusion in GQ’s list of Best New Menswear Designers is any kind of sign, it seems subtlety is suddenly back in fashion.

David Mullen, Save Khaki Founder in his retail store, Courtesy Save Khaki

Given today’s economic tide, it makes sense.  We aren’t quite as jovial as we were just a few years ago, money isn’t growing on trees anymore, and, as David says, times are “a little less impulsive.”

Yet, all things considered, if you believe in the phrase “you get what you pay for”, then Save Khaki’s moderately priced, high-quality clothing makes a compelling case for your dollar.  And, in times as uncertain as these, that’s about all the reassurance one can hope to get.