The Bloggomist: Why I Love DC
Food Opinion

Ben Ali, founder of Ben’s Chili Bowl, passed away a few weeks ago.  Lines have stretched out the door of the Ali family’s business as the DC community has gathered to honor Ben’s legacy. For many of us in DC, Ben’s Chili Bowl goes far beyond the half-smokes, shakes and chili served in Washington’s historical U Street corridor (the intersection of 14th and U Streets).  Having survived gentrification and culture clashes, the Ali family’s business became a cultural institution since the 1950s.

Photo Source: TallRobert via Flickr

At 1213 U Street NW, Ben along with his wife, Virginia, began construction at an old silent movie theater. The Alis opened their business in DC’s “Black Broadway” in 1958 and attracted many performers, including Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., Duke Ellington, Bill Cosby and Nat King Cole. They operated a business during the days of segregated Washington when most establishments were white-only. Decades later, the business would go on to operate as a late night hot spot by becoming a crossway of blacks, whites, punk rockers in the ‘80s, gay couples, government workers, residents from Virginia and Maryland suburbs. In 2009, Ben’s Chili Bowl became a destination for DC tourism after Mayor Fenty and President Obama had lunch in January.

Photo Source: Travlr

It’s hard to imagine that 41 years ago, this area ignited into fire and riots following the assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King in 1968. Many businesses became vacant after the riots but a little hope remained in U Street as Ben’s Chili Bowl operated to serve the homeless, firefighters and activists who worked to restore the damage. Having survived the riot of ‘68, Ben’s Chili Bowl was the only operating business in U Street.  The Ali family would go on to become a model for black-owned business in DC.

Mary Battiata of the Washington Post wrote,

And what a world. Top hats and satin slip-dresses and silver screens and jazz. Look! There’s Cab Calloway. Look! It’s Pearl Bailey. Streetcars and speakeasies. Langston Hughes wrote poetry here. Duke Ellington grew up and played. It was the place to be in black Washington from 1920 until the ’60s. Handsome buildings built with black capital, designed by black architects and made by black hands. Nobel Peace Prize winners rubbing shoulders with milliners rubbing shoulders with professors and dishwashers and shoeshine men and schoolteachers and government clerks.

Photo Source: AP Photo

Fifty years after Dr. King’s death, the U Street area would also become the location to celebrate the election of President Obama. After President Obama was declared the 44th President and first African-American President, DC residents flooded U Street to celebrate the occasion. This was also one of the first neighborhoods that DC Mayor Adrian Fenty took the President to during his first week in Washington. Since then, the line has become larger for an opportunity to have the infamous chili and half-smoke.

Although developers of new resident spaces and businesses are on a quest to transform the neighborhood, Ben’s original half-smokes and chili have always remained the same to serve the hungry for more than half a century. Ben’s Chili Bowl is recognized for being an important staple of DC’s culture and history, a place that is only found in DC and unique to the locals. It goes beyond the half-smokes to us in the nation’s capital.

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For more by Allicia, visit http://evilmonito.com/author/Atek/

Published on 11 November 2009 | |