The Bloggomist: In Context... Design Opinion The air is crisp, the pedestrian pace is quickening, and my nipples are hard enough to cut glass.  Yes, winter is upon us. To ward off the skin-cinching wind and shelter myself from rain and its frozen derivatives, it’s time to break out the big guns. It’s time to take on the storm-hardened, thick-skinned attitude of an 18th-century sailor. It’s time to wear a pea coat. Most people know the pea coat as the semi-formal staple of every cold-weathered residents’ wardrobe, and rightfully so—it does everything. Dress it up for a date or wear it to the store with sweatpants; the pea coat is the Deion Sanders of jackets. Nearly every menswear designer is currently rocking a derivative of the traditional navy pea coat in his or her line for this exact reason. The current trend towards Americana and workwear mean that the pea coat will continue to see a resurgence, as American sailors have been wearing them since the 1800’s. Chilean naval patrol, courtesy LIFE magazine archives. However, the pea coat isn’t American--it’s actually Dutch. Or, at least the root of its name is Dutch. The name “pea coat” is derived from the name of the original 30-ounce cloth, pij, that the Dutch used to construct to the jacket. The Dutch called it a “pijjjakker” or “pijjecker”, which means “pea jacket” in English, and evolved into “pea coat” as it made its way into the English Navy shortly thereafter. US Navy replica pea coat, courtesy Harrys Army Surplus, $140 The pea coat is marked by four primary characteristics: thick, 22-32oz. wool cloth; large, overlapping double-breasted construction; thick, brooding lapels; and eight anchor-embossed buttons. Obviously, designers will riff on these basics, but these are the historic pea coat characteristics. Leather trimmed pea coat by Marlon, courtesy of Context Clothing, $570 The hefty cloth and substantial double-breasted design are what give the coat its warmth and wind resistance--crucial for sailors who traditionally wore them on the decks of ships while at sea. They would often turn up the large lapels to help block the harsh North Atlantic wind from stinging their neck and face. Moncler womens down pea coat, courtesy farfetch.com $1,852 Eventually, the coat made its way off ships and into the hearts of Americans. In the early 1900s, it gained popularity among women. Female versions were created with a six-button configuration instead of the traditional eight, and it’s now grown into a female staple as well. US Naval uniform coats eventually dressed up the jacket by moving to a six-button design more similar to the traditional double-breasted blazer. The look was adapted to officers’ coats with gold buttons and epaulets. Gerald Stewart by Fidelity, courtesy Barneys $300 Today, pea coats are available in a variety of forms, colors and pricepoints. There are budget adaptations from brands such as Old Navy, and then more traditional versions from manufacturers like Fidelity and Spiewak for $200–$300. High-end designers have also stepped into the fray, most notably Moncler’s several riffs priced anywhere from $1,200 on up. Spiewak pea coats. When purchasing, make sure it fits tight in the body, but not so tight as to prevent layering beneath. Stick with jeans or khakis in day-to-day use—it may be double-breasted, but it’s not formal enough to pull off over a full suit. For those, wear a car coats, trench or Mac. Down pea coat by Moncler Gamme Bleu All photos used in this article licensed under Creative Commons. ***